Astrid y Gastón

The food scene in Peru is off the rails. Global influences - Chinese, Japanese, European - have been present in Lima for decades. There is no keeping them confined. One phenotype of this organic fusion is Astrid y Gastón, ranked at #38 on the list of 50 best restaurants in the world in 2018.

We pursued the 13-course tasting menu. At the entry to the menu was the following:

Have we arrived? Maybe.

Its true we've been fighting for a long time, but here is our youth, dreaming in peace, celebrating without fear, grateful of being the children of this Lima of all bloods.

Sons and daughters of the Andes and the coast, the Chinese and Japanese, from Italians and Arabs, and Spaniards and Africans. Of impossible loves that somehow our parents knew how to defend and make bloom.

And here we are today, seeking to be free at last, telling everyone, among chilis and sauces, that we should not build walls but bridges that after the fraternal embrace of the peoples only the good happens; love triumphs.

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Each course was given a title, because of course it was. To go with the courses, we also got a variety of kick ass breads, with spreads equally delectable.

On the left: butter. Lower right is roasted tomato butter dusted with charred tomato skin. The green is avocado, with salsa. Top right is lard, with an apricot gel. Putting the lard on your bread was like spreading bacon on it.

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The indecent bed, the forbidden love

Fisherman empanada, stuffed blue potato with lamb, sea urchin toast

Light and crispy all around; impact of the urchin was chill and fresh. Served with a house pale ale.

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From the Andes' rivers

River shrimp and apple

The apple part was an apple + basil ice that was spoon sprinkled over the shrimp when served. Was overall simultaneously herbescent and salty delicious. Served with a Koyle Costa, a Chilean sauv blanc.

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From the city that carries cebiche on its heart

Cebiche of all bloods

With white corn, sweet potato, onion strings, and a very spicy tiger's milk. Paired with the same sauv blanc.

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From this Lima that falls in love with everyone

Tiradito Lima - Sichuan

Scallop ceviche, paired with Eramona, a Spanish sparkling wine.

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From our Cantonese heritage, the chifa

Cuy pekin

"Chifa" in Peru refers to Chinese food. Crispy savory Peking guinea pig, rolled up in a moist black tortilla and gobbled by hand. With a 2016 Morgon gamay.

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From our Okinawan heritage, the nikkei cuisine

Sancochao dumpling and pepián

Savory beef dumpling, paired with an Italian white, Follia.

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Catch of the day, a tribute to Chucuito

River shrimp, menestrón emulsion, chupin sauce, lima beans

Grouper and prawn, basil in the emulsion. Crunchy seaweed looking stuff. With a 2012 Le Chevalier de Sherimberg.

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From this Lima with no walls that welcomes all with affection

Rabbit in Lima curry, quinua jasmine

The round puck reminded me of a wurst, and tasted to me faintly of liver. Served with two wines, Cara Sur vino blanco, and Concreto, an Argentinian malbec.

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Anticucho de lengua

Beef tongue skewer, carmelized arracacha, picantería sauces

The orange sauce blobs are a verdant chile; the darker swirls a biting paprika. I wanted to lick the plate, but this was an elegant joint, so I used my finger. Same two wines as above.

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From that Lima cuisine of all bloods, all corners, all flavors

Roast short rib stew and his faithful companion, chaufa rice

Eating this involved a lot of moaning. Paired with Apostoles Sherry (Spain).

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Chicherito

Chicha de jora sorbet, coca, quinoa and tamarillo

Palate cleanser before the dessert courses. I thought it was gross. Julia enjoyed it.

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La Papa

Potato, saffron, Kumquat, honey, huacatay, manjar blanco y Porcón Mushrooms

Presented as an intact sphere on a bed of saffron, when cracked open the potato shell disgorged a sweet, delicious, multivariate goo. Paired with Oremys Tokati - a Hungarian late-harvest.

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El cajacho

Cajamarca chocolate mousse, nougat, cacao nibs, yuzu and lemon

Served with Parce rum (Colombian), scented with an orange skin squeezed and waved around near the glass when poured.

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When we thought everything was over, a man showed up with a box. The box had drawers, and lids, and secret compartments, and when the man had opened everything up, it looked like this.

It was a variety of chocolates, in variations too numerous to name. The man explained them all, and then said, "Take as many as you like". For just a moment, Julia and I were both eight years old again.

The chocolate was delicious.