10 Apr 2014 – EBC and the Khumbu Icefall

On our first full day at base camp, Russell Brice, head of Himex, took the trekkers on a hike up to the edge of the Khumbu Icefall, and along the way we were able to get a good look at EBC such as it exists at the present time. Here is the picture posted in the previous blog entry, for reference.

Bird’s eye view of EBC

Base camp is set up on the moraine covered portion of the glacier as it heads down-valley from the icefall. This portion of the glacier contains a significant amount of undulation that must be dealt with in order to set up a camp. Here is a picture of what the white portion of the glacier looks like.

Glacier sans moraine

The Himex and IMG camps are pretty large; most of the camps are smaller. Expeditions arrive, stake out an area, and set up their camp. It is difficult to describe just how jumbled EBC can seem, a patchwork of individual camps set up on an undulating glacial surface. Here are three pictures to try to convey a sense.

EBC 1

EBC 2

EBC 3

The Himex camp is still getting the bugs ironed out. We have no WiFi yet, though telephone communications have just been set up. There are occasional issues still with the power grid, etc. Other groups are still setting up the basic structure of the camps.

Erecting a large tent

This picture, from the same camp, shows workers literally carving a foundation for a tent from the surface of the glacier, using a pick and a shovel.

Pick and shovel picture

On the way to the icefall, we passed by the camp of the Sagramatha Pollution Control Commission. EBC, though crowded, is a pretty clean place. There are provisions for hauling out all waste, including human waste, with an associated price tag that expeditions must meet.

SPCC picture

The larger and longer established expedition groups typically have no problem with this. Rather, problems tend to be caused by smaller, budget-oriented expedition operators, who search out ways to skirt the rules.

Russell explains some stuff

I have to say I have been really impressed with the way Himex handles the trekkers. There are some instances where climbers are obviously granted primary consideration. However, as a trekker with Himex, I have felt at all times like a member of the expedition – simply one with an agenda more limited than those of other members. And in the case of the tour of EBC and the hike to the Icefall, Russell devoted a significant portion of time and attention specifically to the trekking members.

Approaching the icefall

Here is another shot as we approached the icefall. It’s likewise difficult to convey the scale of this portion of the glacier, the large tent in the lower left should help. The last of the sequence of three pictures (EBC 3) should also help. The icefall actually extends upwards a significant distance beyond what is visible here. It is an extremely unstable and dangerous environment, and a significant portion of the accidents/deaths that occur on an ascent from the south occur in the icefall. Climbers cross the icefall beginning around 2:00AM, so that sunlight does not contribute to instability during the crossing.

The route through the icefall typically goes up an edge, with ladders placed across crevasses where necessary. The route is chosen by a group of Sherpa known as the Icefall Doctors. The Icefall Doctors have so much knowledge of the behavior of the ice, accumulated over a number of years, that they are well suited to selecting the best route to be taken to cross. During the night, an avalanche or ice fall (yeah, that’s why they call it that) may render a chosen route invalid. When this happens, the Icefall Doctors will choose a new route and, where necessary, rig ladders across the crevasses of the new route, such that the route is available the next day. If anyone else had the experience and insight of the Icefall Doctors, they might argue with the decisions that get made.

Nobody argues with the Icefall Doctors

During our hike, Russell stopped in to bid the Icefall Doctors good day. Black Diamond, an equipment maker, had the opportunity to sponsor the Icefall Doctors, but declined. Russell and Himex, therefore, purchased crampons, harnesses and other gear, and gave it to the Doctors to use. There are a couple of the Doctors’ ladders in the Himex camp, used for training drills for crossing the icefall. And that’s how stuff gets done.

At last, we approached the base of the icefall. This is as far as Russell would take us or let us go. Because we’re not on the Himex climbing permit, so actually entering the icefall would be illegal. And because, for all the other obvious reasons, for us to progress further would be patently insane. Through the magic of forced perspective photography, however, I can bring you the below image, "Chris Touches the Icefall". Does it matter that the ice I am touching was actually part of the icefall six months ago instead of now?

No.

Tomorrow we hope to climb a nearby hill and, if the weather cooperates, get our picture taken in front of Mt. Everest.